This text first appeared on Vogue Business. Sign up to receive the Vogue Business newsletter for the most recent luxurious information and insights, plus unique membership reductions.
London-based Georgian designer David Koma is the brand new inventive director of Blumarine, the corporate introduced in the present day, following the swift exit of earlier inventive director Walter Chiapponi in March after one season. He’ll current his first assortment for pre-fall 2025 subsequent 12 months.
Recognized for his purple carpet occasionwear, Koma launched his eponymous London-based fashion house in 2009 and has constructed a strong consumer base for his sculptural, daring silhouettes.
“David Koma’s aesthetic captured me from the start. I’m certain that David will be capable of interpret Blumarine’s codes to perfection, due to his imaginative and prescient and stylistic sensitivity, characterised by an awesome femininity,” mentioned Marco Marchi, sole director of Exelite, the holding firm that owns Blumarine, in an announcement.
Blumarine has had a turbulent latest historical past. From 2019 to 2023, the label was considerably reinvigorated by former inventive director Nicola Brognano, who introduced a well-liked Y2K aesthetic to Blumarine, together with the viral butterfly camisole, low-slung denim and metallics. Following Brognano’s departure in October 2023, Blumarine appointed Chiapponi, who’d beforehand served as creative director of Tod’s, setting the label on a extra mature, basic course. His first (and final assortment) took a more romantic direction however was criticised for an absence of cohesion. Below Koma, we are able to probably anticipate a return to Brognano’s high-octane glamour, albeit with a extra elegant twist.
“Blumarine embodies a singular mix of sensuality, timeless glamour and magnificence that I all the time admired, and it’s an honor to have the ability to write the following chapter within the model’s illustrious historical past,” Koma mentioned in an announcement. “I’m excited to have fun Blumarine’s wealthy inventive heritage whereas infusing it with my very own fashionable imaginative and prescient. The model’s female aesthetic deeply resonates with me, making this journey really feel extremely genuine. I’m wanting to craft collections that encourage and captivate our viewers, ushering in an thrilling new period of innovation and creativity at this esteemed home.”
Feedback, questions or suggestions? E mail us at feedback@voguebusiness.com.
Extra on this subject: