Whenever you’re a designer, you by no means know when inspiration may strike. Take Johann Ehrhardt of Haderlump, as an illustration. Little did he understand that when he agreed to assist a buddy of his transfer to Leberstraße 65 within the Schöneberg neighborhood of Berlin that his fall 2026 assortment would fall into place. Berlin-wise, it’s a reasonably iconic handle: the birthplace of Marlene Dietrich. “I stood in entrance of the constructing, and thought, ‘That is superior,’” recalled Ehrhardt. “I went everywhere in the home taking footage. After which I considered how I’ve so many buddies who’re actors and dancers, and I began to consider how I needed to forged them for this present.”
Which explains why he’s saying all this backstage on the Wintergarten Variete theatre, one other location made iconic by Dietrich, who carried out there within the Berlin of the Nineteen Twenties, a time when the town, the nation, and certainly the world, was dancing on the sting of a volcano. So, for fall 2026 then, Dietrich—androgynous, tailor-made, glamorous—is in there, to some higher or lesser diploma: In the best way the tailoring juts on the shoulder, nips on the waist, and flows throughout the legs, as a lot because the swagger of the dramatic, and dramatically lengthy, coats—and all of it in the long run modeled by, sure, actors and dancers and, it so occurs, about 4 or 5 of the employees of the theater itself. (To underscore the efficiency really feel of the night time, Ehrhardt requested musician John Carlsson to carry out a literal curtain raiser soundtrack, and he gave a dreamy, ambient mixture of acoustic grand piano and digital beats.)
But actually what was on Ehrhardt’s thoughts was the will to make Haderlump somewhat extra grownup, much less avenue; strike a distinct be aware, hit a brand new beat. “We needed to attempt one thing completely different,” he stated, “as a result of in any other case, it may get boring: the identical kinds, the identical silhouettes. And, we’ve got a brand new retailer right here in Berlin that opened in December, and that made me need to make all the things with a clear aesthetic; that we are able to spend money on our thought of tailoring.”
Reality be informed, it appears like Ehrhardt has been edging from grit to glamour for a while now, however this assortment undoubtedly struck a extra grown-up be aware, not least of all as a result of he’d swapped the standard city sturm und drang for the purple velveted cosseting of the theater. However it was additionally all there in his garments, from the ever so barely distressed leather-based outerwear which nonetheless exuded polish, to the pinstriped suiting (v. Marlene) whose traces morphed and twisted throughout the physique, to the lace peeking out of so lots of the males’s appears, whereas the ladies shimmered and shined in diamonds.
