David Koma has swapped one airborne muse for one more—after a Supergirl-inspired, comedian book-colored pre-fall assortment, fall 2026 started with the picture of a swan chopping throughout a brutalist cityscape, feathered wings silhouetted in opposition to uncovered grey concrete that Koma noticed on a stroll by means of London’s Hyde Park. It’s these juxtapositions that inform Koma’s design dichotomy for the girl he clothes: a managed, cool-toned female aesthete.
The idea of ‘femininity’ in modern design might swing to one in every of two extremes: a diaphanous silhouette that wisps across the curves, or some armor-like energy shoulders. (Perhaps even a pannier or a bustle, as the previous couple of weeks have proven.) “I needed to seek out that actual sense of pressure between fragility and self-discipline,” Koma stated. His girl workout routines sensuality by means of restraint, ready for the strategy, earlier than the swift and smooth unfurl of her wings like a warning. Feather-pleated and ruffled collars framed the clavicle and layers of tulle kicked out from the hips, set in opposition to an architectural sequence of structured, elongated tailoring, puddling skirts, and plunging corsetry. Horny clothes have been tempered with tuxedo-like particulars, whereas knife-lapeled fits may very well be cinched, and outerwear confidently took up area: a gradient-toned, double-effect shearling coat sat up excessive on the shoulders like raised hackles. All-out glamour and a welcome humorousness have been delivered in flashes as fast and exact because the clear cuts of naked sternums and waists, like a showgirl in her crystal-embellished bra and knicker set with feathers spearing from the underside.
“We’re very proud that almost all of our items have a demi-couture seal to them,” Koma stated, “even on this ready-to-wear type.” The monochrome coloration palette, in stony whites and onyx, amplified the eye to textures and tactility: wings of Mongolian wool, 3D embroidered leather-based floral motifs, matte sequin bouclé, brooch-like buttons, and an nearly translucent lace over silks that recalled the primary whisper of winter ice on an English lake.
