Khoki has been tracing its roots.
Run by a collective of intelligent designers who preserve a low profile, the label has been gaining traction amongst menswear followers however has sometimes struggled to articulate its design identification. This season the staff tried to treatment that by refining the language round what they do, asking: What makes one thing really feel ‘Khoki’? Among the many themes that emerged through the course of have been flea markets, magnificence in chaos, and common motifs of American folks artwork.
Final season, a heavy give attention to Kyoto hand-dyeing meant acquainted components of the model, resembling its quilting, grew to become a lot much less current. It could have appeared good, however patrons acquired confused. “In my thoughts it was a type of chaotic magnificence, bringing collectively Japanese traditions and every part else into one assortment. However from a gross sales perspective, it didn’t actually translate,” mentioned Koki Abe.
Fall 2026 is a season of reflection and consolidation, appropriately shot in Abe’s childhood residence. “It represents the intersection of my staff’s work and my household residence. We needed to seize the surroundings of my hometown, which felt so boring and prison-like again then,” he mentioned. The puffy floral items have been repurposed from “uncool” cushion covers at Abe’s dad and mom’ and aunt’s homes, combined with bow-legged painter pants, and a few drapey pinstripe trousers contrasting with puffy velvet mini skirts.
Essentially the most intriguing garments have been those that integrated the model’s largest energy: its whimsy. This got here by way of within the MA-1 bombers brightened up with vibrant patchwork, romantic lace cuffs that sprouted from striped shirts, and hard canvas workwear jackets spliced with surprisingly smooth Cowichan sweaters. Very charming—and sure, very Khoki.
