Italy’s Umbria Region Is the Perfect Fall Destination

Artù, a sublime chocolate-colored Lagotto Romagnolo — the curly-haired breed of canine recognized for its truffle-hunting capabilities — was not in in the slightest degree taken with me. Me, pal to all canines! Regardless of how onerous I attempted to get his consideration, making whispery noises and wiggling my fingers in his face, Artù wouldn’t a lot as forged a look in my course. Whereas his proprietor, Giovanni Calderini, lectured our small group on the sorts of truffles present in Italy’s Umbria area, Artù stared into the gap, towards the brown and inexperienced of the forest, the place he knew the prized nuggets have been to be discovered.

A short time later, we have been tramping by means of the woods of Tenuta di Murlo, the sprawling property the place I used to be staying with the photographers (and life companions) Federico Ciamei and Martina Giammaria, who had pushed down from their house in Milan. Truffle looking is one in all Umbria’s marquee actions, and Tenuta di Murlo affords excursions led by Calderini over its 18,000 largely untamed acres. It was late October, black truffle season and likewise peak wet season. We have been barely on our method when it began to drizzle — it will rain on and off for the whole lot of my week within the area — so we pulled out our umbrellas and put up our hoods. Now off-leash, Artù, nonetheless spry at 12 years previous, bounded forward. 

After solely about 10 minutes, the canine pulled up brief in a clearing, snuffled round a spot on the bottom, after which stepped again as Calderini dug with a type of spade on the finish of a spear, ultimately prying up, ever so gently, what seemed like a small blond rock. We handed it round, cupping it in our palms like gold. I acknowledged the earthy, musky scent — not from truffles, which I had by no means eaten, however from the truffle-flavored popcorn offered at my neighborhood movie show again in Brooklyn. Calderini pocketed the mushroom whereas Artù sat patiently for photographs. I used to be lastly in a position to pat his silky coat as he seemed up at me with forbearance. Then it was time for his reward: a recreation of fetch, initiated by Calderini. 

That night time, at Tenuta di Murlo’s homey Il Caldaro restaurant, Federico, Martina, and I have been served velvety eggs on toasted sourdough, topped with flecks of the identical truffle Artù had unearthed. Later, in my room, I texted a pal again in america: “At this time I went truffle looking with a canine within the forests of Umbria.” It seemed like a line from Shakespeare.

“Isn’t it unusual that life has introduced you to a spot the place you can write that sentence?” my pal replied. 

It’s a chunk of acquired knowledge that Umbria is “the subsequent Tuscany,” the thought being that discerning vacationers for whom Florence and the encircling countryside are a bit too fashionable will uncover related points of interest — hill cities, rustic trattorias, inventive masterworks — within the area’s much less touristy southeastern neighbor. However judging from my admittedly transient time in Umbria, the comparability doesn’t fairly maintain up. Umbria is its personal factor. Perhaps it was the cool autumn air, or the moody clouds that shadowed us all through the week. However on my first morning at Tenuta di Murlo, searching over the misty panorama simply outdoors our villa, Umbria appeared a bit of wilder than Tuscany, extra lush and atmospheric. 

Over drinks and snacks within the Orangerie, which serves because the property’s check-in station and breakfast room, Carlotta Carabba Tettamanti, who owns Tenuta di Murlo along with her husband, Alessio, informed me the historical past of the property. The land has been in Alessio’s household for greater than 300 years. For many of its lifetime it was a farm that adopted the previous mezzadria system: farmers, or mezzadri, lived on the property and cultivated it, giving a portion of the harvest to the landowner, or padrone. As modernization unfold all through Italy within the Nineteen Sixties, the system was abolished, and farmers deserted their rustic dwellings in favor of homes with electrical energy and working water in cities and cities. Ultimately the previous Tenuta di Murlo farmhouses fell to wreck. Since 2006, Carlotta has been rigorously restoring them and turning them into absolutely serviced luxurious villas. There are at the moment 9, with extra on the way in which, in addition to a couple of conventional visitor rooms in a separate constructing. 

Federico, Martina, and I stayed at Villa Penna, a pair of white stone buildings — as soon as a church and its priory — simply down the street from Carlotta and Alessio’s castle-like house. A number of steps from our door was our personal infinity pool, which met the crest of a hill, and although in October it was too cool to swim, we may think about the crystalline view we might have loved from the water in summer season. Inside the previous church was a sunken lounge with comfortably oversize seating organized round a hearth, an unlimited kitchen and eating space with a ceiling crossed by rough-hewn wood beams, and a grand bed room that had the presence of a theater set. 

Carlotta had included a variety of considerate particulars: once I obtained up in the course of the night time to make use of the toilet, tiny motion-sensitive lights at ankle stage led the way in which. The sense of solitude and serenity was enveloping. Stepping out within the twilight to do some laundry within the close by pool home, I scanned the dusky horizon for the wildlife I’d been informed I’d see — porcupine, wild boar, roe deer, fox. (For higher or worse, I didn’t encounter any.) 

A tour of the property gave us the possibility to go to a couple of of the opposite villas — all of them white stone buildings with characteristically Umbrian terra-cotta roofs. Villa Molinella, the smallest, is a former mill that sits subsequent to a quietly burbling stream and has an underground Jacuzzi the place the mill wheel was once. Essentially the most romantic of Tenuta di Murlo’s villas, it wouldn’t look misplaced in a Monet portray. Villa Torre was as soon as a protection tower from which troopers monitored the close by street, so it has wide-angle views of the countryside. 

The latest renovation was additionally probably the most spectacular. Positioned on a hill excessive above the city of La Bruna, the 10-bedroom Villa Castiglione Ugolino is one other former church, this one constructed within the Thirteenth century. The primary chapel, which has frescoes from the college of Cimabue in Easter-egg colours, stays untouched, and features as an occasion area.

Tenuta di Murlo has a working farm the place Federico, Martina, and I fed sheep and goats and nuzzled with rabbits. We suited up in yellow beekeeper outfits and toured the resident apiary, from which the property attracts its personal honey. On our final night time, a group of cooks turned the kitchen of our villa right into a hive of exercise, too, getting ready a personal feast that blended the flavors of late summer season and early fall: a pecorino soufflé with pear sauce; agnolotti del plin with black truffles and burrata; scallops with tomatoes, caperberries, and olives; and recent berries and ice cream. 

One morning, Federico, Martina, and I met up with an American expat named Rudston Steward, who was taking us on a half-day stroll from the tiny medieval village of Giano dell’Umbria to the hill city of Montefalco, a distance of about eight miles. Steward has been giving strolling excursions round his adopted house of Italy for nearly twenty years; in 2016, he based the Maremma Safari Membership, which is kind of a one-man operation. He as soon as guided walks in Bhutan, Nepal, and different nations, however, as he turned involved about air journey’s carbon footprint, realized that one doesn’t need to fly around the globe to reap the advantages of journey. Each nook of Italy affords its personal treasures. “You may have an enormous number of experiences in a single nation,” he informed me.

Annually Steward conducts a handful of four- to five-day group journeys — subsequent spring and summer season’s roster contains hikes in Calabria, Sicily, Tuscany, and the Dolomites — in addition to {custom} excursions for personal purchasers. A number of weeks earlier than my journey, we had spoken by telephone. When he talked about that the deconsecrated Church of San Francesco in Montefalco had an early fresco cycle by the Renaissance grasp Benozzo Gozzoli, whose joyous work in Florence’s Chapel of the Magi I had seen years in the past and beloved, we agreed to construction a stroll round seeing it. 

For all of the speak within the journey business about “genuine experiences,” moments once we pierce the membrane between ourselves and our environment may be uncommon. Steward’s stroll was the true deal: a four-hour amble alongside secondary roads previous farmsteads and olive groves, the undulating terrain fanning out round us on all sides. Goats peered skeptically at us from behind fences; canines barked at our method. Simply outdoors Giano dell’Umbria, we handed hunters darting out and in of the woods. A number of of their gunshots sounded a bit too shut for my consolation, however Steward paid them no thoughts, unflappably stating broom, juniper, wild asparagus. 

As we handed by means of the quiet hamlet of Rustichino, we met an aged man strolling down the principle street. “Do you need to stroll with us?” Steward requested. The place are you going? the person queried in Italian. We informed him our vacation spot, pointing towards the hill city within the distance, nonetheless some miles away. You’d higher have some meals earlier than you get there, he replied, laughing, otherwise you’ll be hungry. (Certainly, Steward had packed us a snack of fruit and path combine.)

We lastly reached Montefalco, a bit of drained however invigorated and hungry. Steward led us to L’Alchimista, an enoteca in the principle sq., the place we have been seated subsequent to a tableful of cheerful Montefalchesi having an extended, leisurely work lunch, and the place Steward insisted we strive the season’s newly pressed olive oil, grass-green and peppery, on bruschetta. The delicacies of landlocked Umbria is meaty, and I’m a vegetarian, which meant that I used to be compelled — compelled! — to eat a pasta dish at virtually each meal. Chef Patrizia Moretti’s strangozzi — a thick wheat noodle, which she tossed with zucchini and a creamy saffron cheese sauce — was among the many finest.

The Gozzoli frescoes, which occupy a excessive octagonal apse in San Francesco, had the identical heat and intimacy of the artist’s Magi work. The cycle tells the story of Saint Francis, who was born and died in close by Assisi, and spent a lot of his life in Umbria. (On the drive to fulfill Steward that morning, we handed by means of the parish of Canarra, the place Francis famously preached to the birds.) Gozzoli painted the Montefalco frescoes in 1452, greater than two centuries after Francis’s demise, however the fields and farms with which he crammed within the background of the saint’s life appear to exist outdoors of time, and seemed quite a bit like those we had simply hiked by means of. 

Assisi’s Basilica of Saint Francis additionally holds a fresco cycle that illustrates Francis’s life, this one by Giotto, Cimabue, and different medieval artists. These work are keystone works of Western artwork, and have been on the prime of my checklist of Umbrian must-sees. On the day Federico, Martina, and I got down to go to the city, heavy rain was forecast, however we determined to take our probabilities. Midway there the sky unleashed sheets of water so thick that we may barely see the street in entrance of us; I checked my telephone and noticed that Assisi was prone to flash floods. It was onerous not to think about our heat and dry resort rooms, and we rotated, leaving Francis for one more journey. 

A smaller however no much less chic work awaited me within the college metropolis of Perugia, the place Tenuta di Murlo had organized for me to fulfill Elisabetta Federici, a licensed information. Federici led me into the empty Nobile Collegio del Cambio, a set of street-level rooms in a medieval palazzo utilized by the guild of cash changers within the fifteenth century. The partitions have been painted by Perugino (with some assist from his apprentices, one in all whom could have been Raphael) and have an meeting of Greek and Roman figures — Socrates, Pericles, Cato — in addition to non secular and mythological figures, all delicately rendered in radiant colours. It is likely to be probably the most stunning convention room on the earth. 

Federico, Martina, and I sensed that we have been in for one thing completely different — one thing playful — as we drove up the twisting driveway of Reschio, an property that sits on Umbria’s border with Tuscany. We parked close to the Castello, or fortress, a Tenth-century construction that’s been reworked as a 36-room resort with an interesting fun-house sensibility. We wandered into the Palm Court docket, the place a pianist was taking part in a cocktail-bar tackle the Beatles’ “Golden Slumbers,” then toured the adjoining garden, with its lozenge-shaped pool surrounded by umbrella pines. My room had ocher partitions, a large cover mattress, a pumpkin-colored divan, and oddball classic work, the type you would possibly come throughout at a flea market: a black French bulldog, a somber girl in a straw hat. (These work popped up all through the general public areas as properly; my favourite was a Victorian whitebeard with two monumental pink flowers over his ears.)

Like Tenuta di Murlo, Reschio was as soon as a farm that operated underneath the mezzadria system. Rely Antonio Bolza, who was born in Hungary however whose ancestral household hails from Italy, acquired the three,700-acre property in 1994 together with his Austrian spouse, Countess Angelika, and commenced restoring its 50 deserted farmhouses. In time, their son, Rely Benedikt, who had studied structure in London, took over the undertaking, elevating a household within the Castello together with his spouse, Donna Nencia, and ultimately turning the constructing right into a resort that additionally serves as a showcase for his furnishings designs.

We met Rely Benedikt on the Tabaccaia, an extended, two-story constructing that was as soon as a tobacco manufacturing facility and now holds his design studio. Along with his thick swoop of hair, crimson wool blazer, and striped scarf, he jogged my memory of a youthful Jeremy Irons. He has continued to revive the scattered farmhouses, which are actually owned by personal purchasers and include the companies of cooks, gardeners, drivers, and housekeepers. A few of these purchasers are well-known, and the Castello, too, attracts well-known actors and musicians; the truth is, Reschio requests that, in case you take pictures throughout your keep, you be sure that different visitors don’t seem in them.

Over the subsequent few days, Federico, Martina, and I explored Reschio the way in which children would possibly discover a brand new playground. Donna Nencia is a passionate equestrian, and the resort’s stables, populated by stunning Spanish horses, have been probably the most luxurious (and cleanest) I had ever seen. We watched a freshly shampooed horse dry off underneath an unlimited warmth lamp. We sat on deck chairs by the pool and ordered pressed sandwiches from the adjoining bar. We monkeyed round on the out of doors gymnasium and watched different visitors taking part in tennis on the Astroturf courts. I had a therapeutic massage within the spa, which occupies the previous wine cellar, in a room that seemed like a medieval kitchen, lit by candles and a blazing hearth. And I ate further portions of pasta on the resort’s two eating places: the quietly refined Castello and the extra informal Ristorante alle Scuderie. The latter is a tall, ethereal room with floor-to-ceiling home windows that sits a brief stroll from the Castello. Strolling again to our rooms after dinner within the pitch darkish, Federico, Martina, and I heard a snuffling sound coming from the adjoining fields. Umbria’s well-known wild boars, we realized, and picked up the tempo.

I couldn’t assist evaluating Reschio and Tenuta di Murlo, and contemplating the way in which the 2 properties complement one another. Reschio is fizzy and social and eccentric. Tenuta di Murlo is a bit more grown-up, a bit of extra subdued. If Reschio is drinks by the pool and the shock of quirky design, Tenuta di Murlo is a peaceable night with household and a very good e-book, and the deep satisfaction of privateness and proximity to nature. Keep first at one, after which the opposite, in whichever order fits your emotional wants.

On our final night time, we drove to the city of Niccone searching for a restaurant I had examine. It was a Wednesday night time and the principle road was abandoned. It took us some time to search out Locanda di Nonna Gelsa — the doorway was in a greenhouse behind an unassuming constructing. The décor was easy and unfussy; the tables have been lined with checkered cloths. The jolly proprietor, Chiara de Chirico, introduced a blackboard with the night time’s menu. I ordered a hearty ribollita soup after which fagottini, star-shaped pockets of pasta, drizzled with arugula pesto. 

On that night time Nonna Gelsa gave the impression to be populated by close by residents and some vacationers, however de Chirico stated that Reschio and different new high-end accommodations had, over time, introduced an infusion of latest patrons, a few of them well-known. (My entrée, she identified, was Meryl Streep’s favourite.) Nevertheless it was clear that no quantity of movie star had modified Nonna Gelsa, and no quantity would. “If you’re posh,” stated de Chirico, “this isn’t the place for you.” Nonna Gelsa was the type of genuine Italian trattoria that vacationers dream about — the type that appears the identical within the 2020s because it did within the Twenties. 

I considered one thing Rely Benedikt had informed me: “The world has modified, however Umbria hasn’t. And also you don’t need it to alter. It’s stunning as it’s.” 

The place to Keep

Reschio

Reschio is a beguiling, richly designed resort set on an idyllic 3,700-acre swath of northern Umbria. Make the most of the numerous actions readily available — together with horseback using, foraging, cooking lessons, e-bike using, and tennis — or cling by the pool with a panini and a drink by your facet.

Tenuta di Murlo

Lease a villa on this peaceful, secluded estate and also you’ll really feel such as you’ve made your fortune and retired to the Umbrian countryside. Every home is handsomely embellished and comes with its personal personal pool. The service is excellent.

The place to Eat

L’Alchimista

An inviting wine bar on the principle sq. in Montefalco, with a menu of hearty meat dishes and, come autumn, truffle-inflected recipes.

Locanda di Nonna Gelsa

No frills, no fuss — only a rotating menu of Umbrian classics enhanced by the great humor of proprietor Chiara de Chirico and her pleasant employees. This restaurant is positioned within the blink-and-you’ll-miss-it village of Niccone.

What to Do

Maremma Safari Membership

The amiable, American-born Rudston Steward, who has lived in Italy for greater than twenty years, affords multiday group and private walking tours all through the nation. Whereas Umbria isn’t at the moment on his roster of deliberate itineraries, he can custom-design a personal tour.

A model of this story first appeared within the November 2024 difficulty of Journey + Leisure underneath the headline “Earthly Delights.”