I’ve Traveled to More Than 50 Countries but Something About This Surf Island in the Philippines Hooked Me

As I sit down to put in writing about Siargao, a spot that seems like the last remaining paradise, I grapple with my occupation and the task at hand. My job is to share the enjoyment of touring and assist folks uncover new locations and expertise new cultures, and right now, my task is to put in writing about my journey to Siargao, a tiny island in the Philippines. But, sharing this paradise with the world fills me with unease; I can’t shake the concern that my phrases may unwittingly contribute to its erosion by motivating tourism and growth.

With palm-covered hills, clear waters, and pleasant locals, Siargao seems like one of many final wild sanctuaries in an more and more commercialized world. Referred to as the Philippines’s surf capital, Siargao is beloved by surfers who’re bored with Bali and Hawaii’s crowded line-ups and prepared to cope with the island’s creating infrastructure — brownouts are the norm right here. Siargao is maybe what Bali may’ve felt like in the early 1970s, when the island’s waves first began drawing foreigners.

And like Bali 50 years in the past, Siargao is on the cusp of change. It’s nonetheless largely undeveloped and wild, with winding dust roads and houses normal from tin sheets. However in Normal Luna, which homes the Cloud 9 surf wave that put Siargao on the map, the aptly named “Tourism Highway” is lined with eating places serving all the things from dumplings and sushi to pizza and kebabs.

I’ve traveled everywhere in the world, surfed in Bali and Hawaii, and I do know for positive that Siargao has one thing particular. A go to to Siargao is the possibility to expertise what these surf spots may’ve felt like decades ago — and for all my ambivalence, on the finish of the day, I wish to share that with you.

As a reminder, while you go to locations susceptible to overtourism like this particular place, it is best to try to depart a light-weight footprint. Replenish your water bottle at refill stations (moderately than shopping for bottled), say no to take-out containers, and switch off the air-conditioning while you depart for the day. Tourism retains many locals employed however may also result in a build-up of rubbish, soiled groundwater, and trash-strewn coastlines. The U.S. greenback goes far. Tipping helps make an island that’s turning into more and more dearer for locals extra reasonably priced.

The place to Keep

Bravo Seashore Resort Siargao

Bravo is the unofficial Siargao assembly place. The lodge is central, sits proper on the seaside, and has a terrific Spanish restaurant. It additionally has its personal skateboarding bowl, with an adjoining snack bar that serves arepas, home-brewed kombucha, and popsicles to bystanders.

Whereas Bravo shouldn’t be a five-star lodge, your greenback goes far in Siargao: You’ll be handled to wash, modern rooms with air-conditioning and semi-open showers. The property has simply 22 visitor rooms so it doesn’t take lengthy for the workers to begin remembering your preferences and welcome you want household.

Kalinaw Resort

There’s no unhealthy room at Kalinaw Resort, which has simply six villas, every with a personal infinity pool and ocean views. The Wi-Fi is quick, the breakfast is complimentary (and delivered to your room), and parking is free in the event you hire a motorcycle.

The Kalinaw is north of the bustling coronary heart of Normal Luna, offering visitors with a quieter keep. The famend Cloud 9 surf break is simply quarter-hour from the lodge on foot.

Siargao Bleu Resort & Spa

In the event you’re a sucker for a spa, there’s no higher place to remain than Siargao Bleu, the island’s solely spa resort. Along with on-site pampering, the property has a strict “sanctuary time” that begins at 9 p.m. It’s a rule that ensures you’ll drift to sleep to the sound of the ocean — not your neighbor’s voice. A number of of the villas right here face the pool, which is likely one of the island’s finest and largest.

Nay Palad Hideaway

In terms of luxurious, there’s completely no Siargao resort that comes near Nay Palad Hideaway, which is 10 minutes south of downtown Normal Luna. Nay Palad is a hideaway within the truest sense — they name their property “the birthplace of barefoot luxurious” and promise that your pockets gained’t depart your pocket. (Nay Palad is all-inclusive.) Nay Palad Hideaway has just some personal villas and a quiet beachfront.

Issues to Do

Surf

There are lots of lovely Islands within the Philippines, however the surf brings folks to Siargao. Begin by strolling the Cloud 9 boardwalk out to the tower to look at the surfers and get a really feel for the waves. Then, head again to the seaside to hire a board and safe a information.

You may hire a board for below $10 and take a lesson for not way more. If the waves at Cloud 9 are too large (or busy), you may paddle over to the neighboring Quicksilver or Jacking Horse breaks. There are additionally many off-shore waves to catch on Siargao, and driving a ship to the surf is a part of the expertise.

Tri-island Tour

Three little islands off the coast of Normal Luna will be visited through the island’s Tri-island Tour. For round $25 an individual, you may be part of a ship of round 20 different vacationers to see Bare Island (a sandbar with no bushes surrounded by unbelievably clear water), Daku Island, and the tiny Guyam Island. The journey consists of a few snorkeling stops, too.

The entire expertise is completely touristy and pleasant. The lunch unfold, which included seafood and plenty of recent fruit, fully blew my expectations out of the water.

Skateboarding

Siargao’s love of surf transcends to land, the place locals have mastered the artwork of surfskating (skateboarding with a flowy, surfy model). You may hire a board or e book a surfskate lesson with the oldsters at Malakai Surfskate Shop and check your expertise on the new Cloud 9 Skatepark, which opened in Normal Luna in September 2024 and is free and open to the general public. 

Magpopongko Rock Swimming pools

One of many coolest issues I did throughout my time on Siargao was go to the Magpopongko Rock Swimming pools, that are principally human-sized tide pools. You may swim within the community of tide swimming pools and cliff leap off the rock towers that jut out of them — all with an ocean view. 

Magpopongko is certainly a vacationer exercise, however effectively definitely worth the 50-minute drive from Normal Luna. (I employed a tuk-tuk to get there).

Pacifico and Alegria Seashore

Normal Luna has loads of seashores, however in the event you’re in search of an untouched, people-free experience, you’ll wish to head north. Pacifico Seashore is considerably quieter and fewer crowded and has its personal surf spot as well. Additional north, close to the northernmost tip of Siargao, is Alegria Seashore, which is likely one of the island’s finest swimming spots.

What to Eat

Kurvada

Anytime I scootered previous Kurvada — day or night time — it was packed. A line of pots and platters loaded with Filipino dishes sat on the entrance of the restaurant, paralleled by a second line of hungry, finger-pointing prospects.

Siargao’s “turo-turo” eatery is a nod to the Filipino eating model, the place you choose a handful of usually unidentifiable and unlabeled dishes and return to your desk with a plateful of low cost, native meals. 

White Beard Espresso

White Beard Coffee made my favourite cup of espresso on the island, which all the time accompanied my White Beard breakfast du jour — usually waffles or garlic rice and eggs. The eatery has a terrific choice of Western-style breakfast objects, together with some native dishes.

In the event you’re in search of a day pick-me-up, seize a bottle of their Creamy Cloud 9 espresso drink for later.

Shaka

Each Cloud 9 surf day ought to start with a espresso and smoothie bowl at Shaka. The little espresso store and restaurant are proper on the seaside, and from their umbrella-shaded picnic tables, you may take a look at the swell and relish that you just’re in paradise.

Shaka is finest recognized for its smoothie bowls, that are artworks — assume mango flowers, followers of sliced bananas, and toppings that embrace piles of chia seeds, coconut, and oats.

Brunch Spot

Brunch Spot is new to the Siargao meals scene however was rapidly one in every of my favourite eating places on the island. It’s tucked again off the principle street, is totally air-conditioned, and has among the finest hand-pulled noodles I’ve ever had.

Don’t let the title idiot you — whereas it began as a “brunch spot,” it now stays open via dinner.

Hakata Ramen 

A steaming bowl of ramen within the tropics could also be a tough promote for some, however the meals at Hakata It’s so good that it has no downside filling seats — even in summer season warmth. (Don’t fear, they’ve chilly noodle dishes as effectively.)

The vibe at Hakata is chill, the Japanese menu is genuine (and reasonably priced), and the placement is difficult to beat — it’s proper throughout from Cloud 9.

Halika

Each locals and vacationers line up at Halika each day, hungry for the day’s batch of selfmade gelato — served in selfmade waffle cones. Flavors characteristic fruits and vegetation foraged on the island, from mango and coconut to pandan and ube.

When to Go

If you wish to keep away from the wet season, head to Siargao between April and October. The wet season usually kicks off in full drive in November and continues via early March.

I visited the island for 3 weeks in September and solely skilled two wet days. It was nonetheless sizzling within the “fall season,” however the locals assured me it was nothing in comparison with what they skilled in June, July, and August. In the event you don’t like the warmth, plan your go to within the spring or fall.

The best way to Get Round

This can be very simple to get across the island, particularly in the event you’re primarily based in Normal Luna. There’s a endless provide of tuk-tuks, which run in any respect hours and are manned by pleasant drivers. They’ll transport you up and down Tourism Highway in Normal Luna for round $1 every manner.

In the event you’re assured on a moped or scooter, you may hire one for round $5–$8 a day.

The best way to Get There

Along with its creating infrastructure, Siargao’s different barrier is ease of entry. U.S. vacationers should fly into Manila or Cebu after which take a second airplane to Siargao Airport (IAO). Cebu Pacific Airlines (aka Cebgo) and Philippine Airlines flies between each cities and Siargao often.

I spent a few days in Manila earlier than flying on to Siargao with Philippine Airways. It was a fast flight (two hours) and a easy journey day. I’ve heard that in the event you’re coming from Manila, it is best to keep away from reserving a flight to Siargao with a stopover in Cebu. The route is susceptible to delays.

Along with taking a airplane to Siargao, you may fly into Surigao Metropolis on the neighboring Mindanao island and take a ferry to Siargao.