“The silhouette evokes a way of the seasons, a mysterious allure, a girl residing,” reads a t-shirt in Stella Ishii’s pre-fall assortment at 6397. The quote, designer Lizzie Owens explains, has been extrapolated from Martin Margiela: In His Personal Phrases, the documentary on the elusive designer Ishii was interviewed for. It’s a correct description of Margiela’s oeuvre, certainly, but additionally aligned with what Ishii and her staff have constructed at this very New York label.
“It is a few girl residing, that’s it,” chimed Judy Collinson, who joined Ishii’s staff earlier this 12 months. The 4 ladies, Collinson and Ishii along with Owens and Jenny Smith, now design the collections virtually by committee. A showroom appointment at The Information is extra of a roundtable dialogue than the usual tour via a clothes rack. The results of this dynamic is, within the case of this assortment, a nuanced assortment that considers the numerous methods and locations through which a girl—at any given level in her life—wears her garments.
Right here, Owens challenged herself to contemplate solely pure textiles. Disposing of synthetics, the staff defined, meant fascinated about materials in a different way, significantly because it pertains to giving supplies like cottons and silks a little bit of physique via texture. Ishii boiled a pinstripe wool earlier than it was minimize into plush tailoring, and a weightless silk slip had embroidered polka dots that gave the piece extra form. The latter was considered one of a improbable run of clothes that felt like new territory for 6397, with a selected standout being a jersey sheath that includes a curved seam at middle entrance. “We did extra clothes this season, and the rule is that they needed to look good over pants,” stated Owens. Such are the type of idiosyncrasies that maintain 6397 particular.
