For the primary time in his near-15 yr profession, David Koma determined to take a beat and skip a style present or perhaps a formal presentation this season. Partially you suspected this is likely to be associated to his new duties at Blumarine: Koma got here straight to Paris from spending Milan Trend Week along with his new colleagues there. As soon as we caught up in his Paris showroom, nonetheless, the designer demurred; he defined that he was cooking up huge issues for the anniversary in February, so for now: “I believed let me simply give attention to the entire vary and high quality and discover the magic that may be on the rail.”
That magic appeared to be casting its spell on the blissful wholesale purchasers who had been preserving Koma’s group busy. “There are excessive cuts, excessive decadence, excessive opulence,” summarized the designer of a set that he stated was impressed by the Australian photographer Layly Jeffress’s studio shot portraits of birds. Extra particularly, he stated: “I selected the hummingbird for this excessive, hyper vitality. And swallows for the sense of household and togetherness.” Much less thematically however equally dramatically, there was a good quantity of turkey: at present the so-called marabou feathers we see in style are usually sourced from America’s favourite conventional celebratory fundamental course.
A balconette bra and mini skort in fluro yellow was wreathed in a ground size feather trimmed tulle veil. A pale blue crystal fastened lycra bodysuit was worn below a sleeveless hoodie in same-tone marabou. This highly effective hoodie additionally got here long-sleeved, in pink. Koma being Koma, there was a powerfully outlined all-evening part in black. A mini-dress was edged on the bosom with a livery of pink feathers. Slouchy-cut tailoring was accented with a steel chain that draped from the proper shoulder over to the breast pocket; at its finish was tethered an embroidered flower. Trend extra broadly goes by a second of self-reflection about how finest to specific highly effective, self-determined, female hotness: that’s a lane David Koma has been on for so long as he’s been a designer.
