On studying that the conceptual factors of departure for Elie Saab’s spring assortment have been “the sultry African air” and “sun-soaked savannah days beneath countless blue skies,” as this season’s present notes learn, this reviewer will concede that they braced for what was to return. In any case, whereas “safari stylish” is a well-established fixture of the up to date trend vernacular—most just lately and memorably revived in Anthony Vaccarello’s spring assortment final yr for Saint Laurent—its up to date connotations aren’t too stylish in 2024.
Luckily, what Saab confirmed immediately on the Palais de Tokyo managed to swerve the colonial nostalgia that many designers exploring comparable territory have, maybe inadvertently, beforehand invoked. Moderately than romanticized visions of the characters one associates with the intrepid “exploration” of the African continent, right here the Lebanese designer’s heart-fluttering fantasy drew upon the wealth of its myriad chic landscapes.
Okay, there have been quite a few riffs on safari fits—as roomy linen separates or fluid crepe jumpsuits with shrugged-up sleeves—however reasonably than the default khaki, they got here within the hues of fireball lilies, elephant grey, and the ochre mud blown throughout West Africa by the Harmattan gusts. Raffia items have been a selected standout, with the plant fiber delicately woven into low-slung skirts and long-sleeve minidresses with faint bubble hems and that includes fern embroidery on floor-grazing tulle robes.
In fact, given the supply materials, animalia touches have been inevitable—and, actually, Saab would’ve been remiss to not lean in right here. Navy jackets, sweeping chiffon robes, and cinched Saharienne coatdresses have been embellished in textured micro-leopard prints, although their probably brash impact was tempered, studying extra like a sultry purr than a campy roar.
Foliage, too, served as a key motif all through, with lush rainforests lending their palettes to every little thing from structured, belted pantsuits to wind-catching cape attire. Essentially the most dazzling translations, nevertheless, got here by means of decadent emerald embroideries of palm fronds on a set of glove-fit chiffon night robes. Although it may be argued that this part may have been edited down, gauging by the quantity of strass-y night seems to be noticed within the entrance row, the attire will swiftly discover properties in wardrobes the second they arrive in shops.
