This season, Camille Miceli introduced Pucci’s la dolce vita tour to Portofino, staging a takeover of La Cervara, a medieval hilltop abbey with hidden cloisters, manicured gardens, and sweeping views of the Golfo del Tigullio. Company had been handled to an intimate present en plein air, the slightly breathtaking backdrop at sundown making a languid, heat, and lighthearted vibe. Miceli has a knack for French-Italian cool.
Pucci visuals, typically overwhelmingly dense, are getting a contemporary, kinetic spin below Miceli. For spring, she zeroed in on the Marmo motif, “the primary print that seduced me,” she stated. Initially conceived by Emilio Pucci when he discovered himself mesmerized by the sunlit ripples inside Capri’s Grotta Azzurra, the swirling sample carries a hypnotic, virtually hallucinatory rhythm. Miceli wove it via the gathering—reimagined in prints; picked out with metallic studs on tunics and palazzo pants; and remodeled into beaded black-and-white swirls, shiny as seashells.
Miceli experimented with quantity and silhouette, taking a extra confident strategy to method and savoir-faire. Breezy, cloud-like tops, “as if billowed by the wind,” met bouffant crinolines crafted from parachute nylon, cinched and formed with performs of drawstrings and embroidered with curly 3D appliqués. Flowing caftans contrasted with tight-fitting asymmetrical tunics, bandeau miniskirts had been paired with outsized masculine shirts, and sheer second-skin stretch-net tube attire clung to the physique like tatouages. Emphasizing movement and sprint, printed tubular fringes had been an ornamental leitmotif—rippling from belted ponchos, cascading off-shoulder on tops and skirts, and swaying dramatically from a square-cut, black-and-white beaded robe worn by Kristen McMenamy, who closed the present along with Naomi Campbell, sensational in a sinuous black-and-white sequined quantity.
Miceli dialed down Pucci’s sometimes exuberant, riotous palette to a restrained trio of black, white, and soft-shell pink. But the home’s power remained intact—solely extra crisply outlined and deliberately targeted. “Actuality is so harsh—I feel we want softness, tenderness, not aggression,” she remarked. If solely the world had been taking notes.
