Marco De Vincenzo does get pleasure from a metaphor. “The gathering is a form of wave between rigor and explosion, abandon and sharper silhouettes,” he supplied, charting the seasonal voyage of the Etro spirit: “Its bohemian facet resurfaces, hyper-colored, maximalist, a little bit mad.” In his telling, Etro is a self-regenerating circle; an ornamental universe that feeds off itself just like the ouroboros, and by no means appears to tire of the train.
The present opened on a relatively buttoned-up notice. Tailor-made, menswear-leaning seems to be carried a whiff of swashbuckling mischief: scarves threaded by slits on the again to kind built-in martingales; sea-wolf peacoats spliced with corset-like inserts. Etro’s maximalist self-discipline is now a language De Vincenzo speaks with fluency, however right here it got here intentionally tempered, the palette softened to muted, dusty tones, tinged with a notice of autumn.
Regularly, the composure loosened its collar. The physique got here into sharper focus by sheers and figure-hugging types, whereas more and more untamed “furs” entered the body, nudging the gathering towards patterns and colours with no obvious curiosity in restraint. The furs, for the report, had been in truth intricate wool constructions. “The impact is loopy,” De Vincenzo famous with evident relish. “Wool, in spite of everything, has no intention of impersonating actual pelage politely, and the ensuing texture feels all of the extra subversive for it.”
By the finale, exuberance was in management, with out pretending in any other case. A fantastical menagerie erupted in wool crochet: totally handmade attire had been densely embroidered with three-dimensional unique creatures roaming a wealthy, vibrant floor. In De Vincenzo’s Etro, ornament doesn’t merely embellish; it multiplies and proliferates. If he as soon as needed to give up to the model’s extravaganza, he now appears to experience it. The closing seems to be, an unapologetic riot of sequins and feathers, had been colourful, joyful, and gloriously instinctual—maybe already pre-booked for the fast-approaching Oscars purple carpet.
