In a warehouse area in Tokyo Bay on a cold night, Kamiya’s present sat someplace between a runway presentation and a live performance. Nigerian-American rapper Tobi Lou supplied the soundtrack with a stay stage efficiency on the head of the runway: “Can’t kill me, I’m a nasty bitch,” went one of many songs.
The music suited the garments, which dripped with the streetwise angle Kamiya is thought for. Shiny nylon MA-1 bombers with fake fur collars have been worn over monitor pants and tailoring, and fashions toted leather-based purses completed with a gold Kamiya monogram, indicating a business push. Kamiya, which was launched beneath Mihara Yasuhiro’s firm SOSU in 2023, has a lot in widespread with Yasuhiro’s eponymous model and its deliberately disorderly streetwear, however is a little bit grittier and extra easy.
As typical, hallmarks of grunge have been threaded all through: raggedy lengthy cardigans, brushed cotton plaid flannel shirting, and dishevelled patched-up denims worn with belt chains. What made it really feel recent was the injection of sexiness that Kamiya has been taking part in with since final season. There was the shirting he launched for spring, together with some louche, clavicle-baring tailoring that livened up the combo, plus denim wrap skirts that difficult the silhouettes to attention-grabbing impact. Branded boxer shorts peeked out from low-slung, knee-slashed denims, whereas washed-out hoodies and sanded leathers have been shrugged over naked torsos.
“I needed to create one thing attractive that was for males. How ought to I put it?” the designer thought for a second. “It’s about pursuing a masculinity that comes from inside, fairly than making an attempt to look cool on social media.” At a time when mainstream masculinity on social media, not less than within the West, revolves round an more and more poisonous on-line manosphere, that sentiment felt like a balm.
