“Life is a film,” Armani has stated, “and my garments are the costumes.” Whereas demonstrably unfaithful, this want helps clarify Armani’s and Hollywood’s mutual fascination. Armani’s garments have embellished motion pictures from American Gigolo to Batman, emblematizing glossy assurance, and in the previous couple of months alone Armani jokes have enlivened each Hook and Father of the Bride. Richard Gere and Cindy Crawford have been married in December in complementary Armani fits, and actors from Kevin Costner to Jodie Foster, in addition to moguls together with Mike Ovitz, Daybreak Steele, and Sherry Lansing, commonly sport Armani. Ladies’s Put on Every day referred to as him “the official clothing store of the 62nd Annual Academy Awards.”
“Sporting Armani in Hollywood makes no assertion, no, no,” Donald Sutherland stated in Milan. “It makes you look particular person and terrific. And everybody in Hollywood desires to look as particular person and terrific as doable. “ With out essentially being particular person and terrific.
Armani research the way in which Lauren Hutton and Michelle Pfeiffer put on garments (typically his): “Lauren will put on a vital, costly embroidered jacket on prime of underwear and denims. Michelle wears a gold lamé go well with with no make-up and a pair of black glasses. It’s the distinction that consecrates the picture.”
“Armani could be very intelligent,” Eric Clapton mused in Milan. “He’s managed to promote American garments of the thirties, forties, and fifties, that nice Hollywood look, again to the Individuals, who assume they’re shopping for Italian.” Armani, in different phrases, sells a picture of a picture, a seductive allusion to a seductive phantasm.
In his quest for the proper sotto voce understatement, Armani dreads vulgarity like demise. He’ll go to extraordinary lengths to border his creations correctly, so that they—and he—can by no means be accused of crassness, of unwell breeding. “My ambiance is all the pieces,” Armani stated. “Should you ask me to design a pillow, you may predict the colour, the form, the quantity of puffiness. However as a result of I’ve a line of thought doesn’t make me a monk. There ought to be frivolousness, however frivolousness in my type.
“Final night time’s child doll clothes would make you say, ‘Oh, that’s not Armani.’ However inside my context, it’s Armani. One other designer would have interpreted the newborn doll with an aggressive print or an aggressive shade, accessorized it with excessive heels, pearls, rhinestones, or put it on a glamorous woman like Claudia Schiffer or Naomi. However I do it in tender, see-through veils, with flat heels, on an androgynous mannequin, so she seems like a bit of woman. I like to put masculine outfits on glamorous, made-up ladies, after which give masculine or androgynous-looking women garments that don’t belong to them, female garments. The distinction is essential, in any other case you get an Armani caricature.”
Armani contends in opposition to two acquainted criticisms. One was nicely expressed by a silver-haired man I sat subsequent to at an Armani vogue present at Boston’s Isabella Stewart Gardner Museum. Because the fashions strutted within the fall line, this observer, cloaked in a navy Brooks Brothers go well with and black Lloyd and Haig sneakers, groaned to his spouse, “Oh no!…Terrible! What’s that, for Chrissake? Shapeless.. .revolting. . .the drabbest clothes I’ve ever seen.” Boston has been a tricky promote for Armani.