The Église Protestante Unie de l’Étoile is a liberal church, however Sunday mass this was not. The Vaquera devoted turned out of their best for designers Bryn Taubensee and Patric DiCaprio tonight. This duo attracts a fashion-mad crowd; no hat is just too huge and no bra is just too skin-baring to put on solo. Taubensee and DiCaprio are obsessives themselves, spinners of what they name style fan fiction. A fall 2018 present through which they paid tribute to their icons—Vivienne Westwood, Miguel Adrover, and André Walker—got here to thoughts. They didn’t spell it out fairly so succinctly this season, however folks within the room born within the twentieth century might clock the references.
Gucci got here to thoughts virtually as quickly because the present started. After the bride made her grand entrance, the primary mannequin wore a low-cut thong, her pubic hair manicured right into a fluorescent inexperienced coronary heart—or was {that a} merkin? In any case, it might’ve been a callback to a Tom Ford-era Gucci advert; in case you ever noticed it, you’ll know the one. Rudi Gernreich and his as soon as scandalous monokini of 1964 got here up for reexamination subsequent. It’s nonetheless scandalous greater than 60 years later.
Elsewhere there have been offhand nods to a 1965 Yves Saint Laurent high fashion cocoon gown and a fall 2006 Balenciaga by Nicolas Ghesquière assortment through which he was reinterpreting the nice Cristóbal’s experiments in form. An inverted triangle high affixed with a bow tie needed to have been impressed by Klaus Nomi. The otherworldly performer wore white face make-up, but it surely might’ve simply as simply been William Klein’s iconic 1966 movie Qui êtes-vous, Polly Maggoo? that offered the supply materials for the fashions with the facepaint right here.
A lot of the remainder of the present was skin-baring in a method or one other: hip-cut trousers with trompe l’oeil thongs, leather-based attire and skirts with zippers slinking open across the curve of a hip or a breast, harlequins of uncovered flanks on shiny duchesse attire. “The gathering confronts the stress between perfection and chaos,” wrote Taubensee and DiCaprio. “Its solid of characters all appear to counsel that probably the most covetable garments in your future are people who mirror our fractured current.” And, after all, our previous. Essentially the most startlingly unique concepts retain their relevance.
