So palpable had been the feelings and energy of Anne Sofie Madsen’s fall present that as I walked out of the venue a cartoon “Pow!” was on repeat in my head. The crew knocked it out of the ballpark with a group that spoke to the second—and to the worth of expertise. Madsen labored for John Galliano at Christian Dior and with Alexander McQueen earlier than beginning her personal enterprise, which she ran from 2011-2017 and rekindled for fall 2025. Caroline Clante joined the corporate the next season. That the excitement and affect of the label is rising is evidenced by copycatting in different cities.
Not like visuals and strategies, context can’t be appropriated, and far of the impression of the autumn assortment got here from its engagement with the present occasions. (With Greenland being an autonomous a part of the Kingdom of Denmark, the fraught political state of affairs is taking part in out near residence, in all senses.) “I’ve to say that I do really feel that these diminished horizons make creation rather less tempting, however I do additionally imagine that even a modest try to attempt to put one thing stunning into the world and do one thing completely different ought to have a spot,” Madsen stated.
With native band Marriage ceremony taking part in reside and loud, Madsen and Clante’s present acted like a sort of cleaning ritual. “We referred to as the gathering Ghostly Issues, and I believe that it got here from this concept that the current is haunted by futures that we promised, however we will not imagine in,” stated Madsen, who added that the concept was to exorcise the ghosts and their energy over us by materializing them. And so the present opened with a semi-sheer, broad-shouldered costume, which differed from comparable ones proven for spring as a result of it revealed pads on the hips, breasts, and shoulders. Because the mannequin had a sort of warrior side together with her flowing hair and strappy boots from Madsen’s excellent collaboration with Uggs, this could possibly be learn as smooth armor. The designer defined that she grew to become fascinated with shapewear as a result of “it’s easy. It compresses and conceals, however on the similar time it reveals what it’s supposed to cover, and it’s by some means neither a physique nor a garment—it’s an area in between. And I believe that is additionally the place you discover the ghosts, in these in-between areas.”
Regardless of the delicacy of the opening look, and others with jewellery trapped below sheer layers, this wasn’t an particularly wispy assortment. The designer draped stable wool scarves into fringed clothes and revisited the duffle coat, additionally seen within the fall 2025 assortment. To Madsen, these utilitarian coats, as soon as completely menswear, are related to each rebels and students. (They had been additionally worn by British troopers in WWII.)
Romance entered within the type of roses—there have been material ones and a print created by the Swedish spray artist Solas. But Madsen wasn’t serious about your typical flower, reasonably she had Danish elves—elver—in thoughts. “I’ve a sense that I used to be advised after I was a baby that in Danish folklore roses are the signal of ghosts. Elver are kind of uncanny human creatures, however they’re made out of fog and morning dew and mud and the scent of roses. They’re solely princesses. They’re all ladies and so they’re very kind of seductive.” This backstory adjustments how one would possibly learn the finale, when all of the fashions got here out directly. Possibly they weren’t a woman military, however a princess posse. In any case, very like roses, they convincingly linked energy and prettiness.
