Jean Paul Gaultier x Pandemonia, spring 2020 couture
Photograph: Alessandro Lucioni / Gorunway.com
An inheritor to trend’s perpetual “enfant horrible” Jean Paul Gaultier (who retired in 2020) has lastly been named. It’s Duran Lantink, a 37-year-old Dutchman with a cheeky humorousness and a mind for exaggerated silhouettes. “I’m actually about form and varieties, and making an attempt to create new concepts,” the designer lately told Luke Leitch.
Lantink can be a repurposer, one who’s alert to the potential in present clothes and supplies. This type of pondering equally animated a lot of Gaultier’s early collections. Gaultier magicked straw placemats into clothes, and proposed tea strainers and copper pot scrubbers as jewellery. It was whereas feeding his cat that he bought the concept of changing metallic cans into bracelets; subsequently they grew to become a part of the home iconography and perfume packaging.
Associated to the elevation of on a regular basis objects into extraordinary objets is an appreciation for a lived-in look. When Gaultier launched couture for spring 1997, the gathering included appears to be like constituted of his personal upcycled denims. In an interview with Fantastic Man, Lantink declared his love of “worn-in garments.”
Jean Paul Gaultier, spring 2004 couture
Photograph: Marcio Madeira
Duran Lantink, spring 2024 ready-to-wear
Photograph: Filippo Fior / Gorunway.com
Nonetheless, probably the most visible hyperlink between Lantink and Gaultier is their shared choice for blown-up appears to be like. The place the Dutch designer molds pliable foam varieties, the Frenchman most well-liked scorching air. He closed his well-known Cyberpunk assortment of fall 1995 with puffed hats that have been inflated by the hand-held bonnet hair dryers—of the type his grandmother used to make use of. The designs, he mentioned, have been “flat, and whenever you put the air—poof—it turns into like an erection.” Lantink has quite a bit to construct on at Gaultier.
