Juxtaposition was the secret at Nanushka this season: previous meets future, masculine meets female, natural meets structured. As Sandra Sándor celebrates the model’s twentieth anniversary this 12 months, she views the autumn 2025 providing as a meditation on her “refined bohemian” buyer’s evolution, mirroring her personal transition from younger designer to mom and trend trade veteran.
Sándor selected to revisit a few of her favourite Nanushka appears to be like of yore for inspiration, taking a particular curiosity within the pilgrim collar. “We began off [with] an intuitive draping session and we positioned this collar onto the totally different elements of the physique,” she defined. Following her instinct yielded a number of the highest payoff within the assortment: when Sándor locations the collar on the waistband of a column skirt, it folds over the hips like a blooming flower (which appears applicable for a set referred to as Develop).
Though a lot of Sándor’s perspective is influenced by motherhood, she didn’t give in to overly female items, placing a pleasant steadiness between masculine and female. The strong-shouldered items (particularly the pinstripe swimsuit with the cinched waist) proved much more fascinating than a few of her de rigueur attire.
This season, Sándor challenged herself to not rely too closely on Nanushka’s trademarked faux-leather, Okobor, solely utilizing it in a sage inexperienced jacket. “We didn’t wish to give an enormous presence to it within the assortment, however we nonetheless wished it to be there,” Sándor mentioned. The choice allowed her to point out off her vary (though it will’ve been good to see some extra colour all through the gathering). As Sándor considers the following 20 years of Nanushka, hopefully she is going to carry extra of that sense of risk-taking.
